Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
